From Tourist to Soil-Taster: A Journey Through Uzbekistan with Save Soil

From Tourist to Soil-Taster: A Journey Through Uzbekistan with Save Soil
- By Sujatha Rajagopal, Save Soil Coordinator for Russia and Central Asia

Wiping the salty grime off my sun-drenched face on a sweltering summer afternoon in Uzbekistan back in 2023, I never imagined that just two years later, I’d be licking salt straight off the ground in that very same land.

But that’s exactly where life—and soil—led me.

It all began when Save Soil was invited to attend the Conference on Landlocked Developing Countries (LLDC) in Tashkent, in September 2024. The invitation came from Mr. Jakhongir Talipov, Head of International Relations at the Ministry of Ecology of Uzbekistan. What started as a promising conversation quickly turned into something far more significant. By November 2024, during COP29 in Baku, our Chief Science and Technology Officer, Ms. Praveena Sridhar, was signing a Memorandum of Understanding with Uzbekistan’s Minister for Ecology, Mr. Aziz Abdukhakimov, to support the country’s efforts to revive and safeguard its soil health.

Fast forward to April 2025. We found ourselves in the heart of Central Asia once again, this time participating in the Samarkand International Climate Forum, thanks to an invitation from the Minister of Ecology and the tireless support of Mr. Sadriddin Suyarov at the Embassy of Uzbekistan in India. Seizing the opportunity, we planned a field visit immediately after the forum—because when soil calls, we answer.

Our journey kicked off from the storied city of Samarkand, accompanied by our Central Asia Technical coordinator, Ms. Almagul Mamadaliyeva, and two distinguished experts from the Ministry of Agriculture: Mr. Oybek Soatov, Head of the Department for Soil Fertility & Degradation Control, and Mr. Zafar Balhodirov, Head of Department at the Institute of Soil Science and Agrochemical Research.

What followed were three remarkably productive days, crisscrossing the countryside in search of answers buried beneath our feet. For someone who, just a few years ago, knew next to nothing about soil, I was in for an education that was as eye-opening as it was humbling. The Save Soil movement, catalyzed by Sadhguru’s epic 2022 journey across 27 nations, had sparked something in me. I became a volunteer—and this field trip was my chance to dig a little deeper, literally.

As we moved from region to region, the soils told their stories. In Samarkand, the earth was dark, teeming with visible organisms—signs of life and fertility. But in Bukhara, the soil shifted shades and textures. Here, it crackled with salinity, earning its rank as second-highest on the salinity map of Uzbekistan. Speaking with local farmers brought sobering insights. They understood the vital role of organic content in sustaining agriculture. Yet, they shared a painful truth—none of their children planned to follow in their footsteps.

We must make agriculture profitable and attractive to younger generations - otherwise who will be growing food for them and their children?

Our journey wasn’t just about soil samples and salinity levels. Each stop doubled as a cultural exchange. Meal breaks became windows into history—where dishes like plov, somsa, nan, and halva served as delicious reminders of centuries of Indo-Uzbek connections along the Silk Road. Even the ikat patterns on traditional clothing sparked conversations—were they Indian? Uzbek? Or born from the blending of both?

There were also deeper, more sobering lessons—like the haunting story of the Aral Sea, now a vast wasteland of salt and dust. Once the world’s fourth-largest lake, it shriveled due to mismanaged irrigation for cotton farming. Today, its salty legacy rides the wind, degrading soils and affecting neighboring nations.

Yet amidst these challenges, hope sprouts. Uzbekistan’s President, Mr. Shavkat Mirziyoyev, has launched the ambitious ‘Yashil Makon’ project, aiming to expand green cover from 8% to 30% through tree-planting and drought-resistant vegetation. His words at the Climate Forum still ring in my ears: “Fertile lands are rapidly decreasing while the region’s population is growing, and in 25 years it can surpass 100 million people. Today, over 20 percent of land in the region is exposed to degradation.” This wasn’t just a political statement—it was a global call to action.

On the final day of our trip, we visited a soil monitoring laboratory, where local specialists—and even an ex-MP welcomed us warmly. We examined their mobile lab with fascination, watching a passionate technician demonstrate soil testing tools with infectious enthusiasm. A particularly heartening detail: most of the lab’s technicians were women.

Our last stop brought us to the Bukhara Agrobiotechnology Institute, where Almagul, and I presented on the Save Soil movement—highlighting our policy engagements in Central Asia and experiences with Farmer Producer Organizations in India. An audience of about 70—farmers, students, professors, and government officials—listened attentively. Local TV stations captured the moment, eager to understand how outsiders viewed their homeland’s soil and the strides being taken to protect it.

As I stood by the serene Tudakul Lake, our very first stop, I noticed a strange shimmer on the soil’s surface—a thin white crust. Praveena nudged me and whispered, “Try it.” I hesitated. Then curiosity got the better of me. I knelt down and touched the surface with my tongue.

Salt!

It was then that I recognised the salty full circle moment! Two years ago, I was a sweaty tourist wiping it off my skin. Now, I was tasting the land—feeling its challenges, its stories, its resilience—through the very soil beneath my feet.